loving the Tuamotus

Rain showers and wind, love them both at anchor! We are visiting our last atoll in the Tuamotus, Toau, and we have chosen the North part of the atoll, which has a fake pass, Anse Amyot. It's a slot in the reef what appears to be a reef, but it's really like a cul de sac blocked by coral. It's a small, lovely anchorage, and within less than a 0.5 mile you go from the 3000 ft depth of the Pacific to the mooring ball of 25 ft. It's also the place where we found the trimaran of a fellow cruiser family we met in Mexico in 2018. We don't know all the specific details, but last year they had to abandon ship when they hit coral heads in Fakarava, and the boat was no longer operable. It's sitting here,floating again on a buoy, apparently in exchange for the help they received from the locals.

Today both Tod and I had an amazing snorkeling experience. We each were surrounded by thousands of white 8 inch fish, huge schools. Which ever way you looked you were in the midst of it if you stayed still. Once you started to move, the cloud of fish would open up, separate, and you could swim through. Memorable, we try to do it again tomorrow and see if we can get it on camera. Beautiful colorful fish here too, live aquarium before your eyes. Just one hour later, Tessa and I had an unforgettable experience: petting a male frigid bird. We have seen these majestic birds with wing spans of 1.6 m on a remote island in Mexico, and did not expect to see one here. The couple Valentine and Gaston, who make this atoll their home, have been nurturing it from a young age. It's free to fly anywhere, but apparently it appears to prefer to stay close to their place, and will fly on Valentine's arm when she calls his name. It sings, and loves to be kissed and touched by Valentine. An interesting pet to have.

By the time we leave for Tahiti next week, we have spent almost a month in 3 of these low laying atolls. We spent most of our time in Fakarava, a world heritage site. It's been relaxing, swimming and snorkeling in azure blue lagoons surrounded by evergreens (!) and palm trees, taking beach walks, and meeting new cruiser families. It's been a joy to see Tessa so comfortable swimming and diving down in waters up to 60' deep, she is a natural. I see scuba diving with me in her future.

So far we have noticed how clean and quiet the Marquesas and the Tuamotus are, in comparison with the Pacific Mexico cruising grounds (the quiet Sea of Cortez in Mexico being a whole different, awesome world in itself). Not much grows in the unfertile, shallow, sandy soil of the Tuamotus, so people rely on the supply ships coming in weekly or biweekly, or even less frequent for the more remote islands of French Polynesia. It seems like the whole town comes out when the supply ships arrives. We cruisers know of it too, so it was a hoarding frenzy last Wednesday at the Magazine near the non working gas station. And mind you, nothing is cheap here. I was a bit late, and saw that many bell peppers were still there, well at $20/kilo even cruisers are holding back. Not me though, as we are really needed some fresh stuff. I paid $10 for a cabbage, Tod has been making great cole salads. I don't have to feel bad that we cruisers take all the fresh food away, as I noticed that several bags of fresh produce was not available for the cruisers,and I assume it's reserved for the local families.

In Rotoava, the main little town in Fakarava, locals are using beach bikes to ride the single paved road, no need for traffic lights here. There is a school as well, but like other places in FP, for higher grades kids would need to go to Tahiti to finish school. We didn't go to church, but on Sunday saw the local nicely dressed up for the service. Our French is not very good, so we do not get to interact as much as we would like, but a friendly ia orana is always appreciated. Most bigger atolls have tiny airports, and are not as remote as they used to be. A fellow cruiser bought several cases of wine in Tahiti when he arrived there by plane, then had the cases fly out to Fakarava for just an extra $1.50 per bottle. No need for us, we are still working on our bildge liquor supply from Mexico. Very small cruise ships visit larger atolls as well. They are welcomed ashore with music and locals offer their crafts and jewelry (pearls are big here), than leave a few hours later.

Finishing school soon for the day, then back to hopping in 85 degrees water. Someone has to do it! But believe us, paradise has it's limits and tropical island living isn't for everyone. We know we couldn't do it full time, and are looking forward to the change in weather and environment in a couple of months, and off course seeing our family and friends again!

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At 2019-Jun-01 21:56 UTC the position of Bliss was 15°48.22'S 146°09.09'W, at Anse Amyot on the atoll of Toau, Tuamotus group of French Polynesia